Tillandsia riohonduensis '#2'.

These were previous classified as Tillandsia capita 'Peach". It is now reclassified as Tillandsia riohonduensis.
This my smaller form, but id does flower easier than my other larger form.
They typically takes 2-5 years to bloom in my conditions. It is suggested that the species normally forms pups higher up on the stem and the mother plant may last for many years.

This is the neglected plant in 2013:

The plant in 2 February 2020:

29 February 2020

Copper and air plants/Tillandsia.

Do not mix them!!!

It seems that copper in its solid form, like wire, is very toxic to Tillandsia. 

 Generally, it does not make much difference what the mounting material is, as long as it is not toxic.

This includes natural toxins such as accumulated salts in ocean driftwood, or phenol/terpene/tannin leachates from some fresh wood/bark – aging and soaking with fresh water usually removes natural toxins.
Do not use treated timber, as these are impregnated with a copper solution (CCA - Copper Chrome Arsenate), which is very toxic to Tillandsias - this also includes the wax treated wood products. Also, avoid painted/stained timbers or materials whereby leachates may be produced. Attempts should be made to maintain the mount as natural as possible.

I have seen the toxicity of copper wire killing plants;

I have removed the copper wire to see if the plants will recover.

I do have a lot of plants hanging on treated laths and poles, but at this stage no signs of any damage.

Tillandsia brachycaulos x T. streptophylla - many greges, cultivars and unnamed hybrids going around.

This is Tillandsia Bauple. 

Before flowering 2 February 2020 :

On 24 February 2020:

 Tillandsia brachycaulos x Tillandsia streptophylla? Much thinner base and short first leaves. But also very beautiful! 

3 April 2018:

 2 February 2020:

17 February 2020

 29 February 2020

Extension to the back area of my Tillandsia growing area.

I extended the roof by using welded mesh and treated poles. I covered the roof of the area with shade cloth. There is a banana plant growing there, so I decided to work around it. This is how it looked from the outside:

This is the banana tree i decided to leave because there was a big bunch on it:

 The path and the basic outline of the left area. The bricks add heigh and also give me space to plant some creepers:

 The first pieces of deadwood:

The result for now:

Here is the opposite side of the above area. I have some rocks laying around, so I decided to use them:

The big banana tree was removed after the bananas ripened and I decided to leave two of the young bananas. Now the mesh at the back was added to keep the dogs out:

The final result of the rock area with micro sprayers added:

Hanging bigger Tillandsia species.

You need some strong fishing line, wooden rings used for hanging curtains, screw in iron hooks and some varnish.

Screw in the metal hooks and varnish to seal.

Attach the fishing line at a length that is needed

Center the plant in the ring. A small wire around the line can be used as a slider to keep the plant in place.

+

Tillandsia flabellata - intense red spikes!

Tillandsia flabellata is a species in the genus Tillandsia. This species is native to southern Mexico (Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas) and Central America (Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua)
Two varieties are recognized:  

1. Tillandsia flabellata - Oaxaca, Chiapas, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua 

Tillandsia 'Big Red'
(A consistently large form of T. flabellata, collected by Florida grower Steve Correale in 1978 from near the Mayan ruins in Copán, Honduras. Mature open rosette to 60 cm diameter x 30 cm high. The scurfed, channeled, arching green leaves, 43 cm long x 2.5 cm wide, are pale frosted red underneath (discolor), tapering to a point. Upright green inflorescence to 50 cm tall with approximately 10 salmon orange / pink branches each to 23 cm long with blue flowers. Reg. Doc. 6/2016 by Sue Styer.
Country of origin: Honduras) 
in habitat:

 This species can become massive plants! Plants 0.75m high and 0.6 wide is quite common. With the spike they can become higher than 1m. The leaves of the plants are very prone to damage and the plant should be hanged/placed where people or animals can not disturb them.

Some of my plants: One spiking in the background and the one to the front to show the size.

 The spike forming:

Flowering - impressive candelabra:

The shiny spike and a flower:

 Comparison with another form that do not form a candelabra - but the leaves are still soft and red.

Another one mounted on a trunk:

 Now flowering:

Cultivation: As seen, in my conditions,  the plants can be grown mounted or potted up in a very open mix. They need at least 60-80% sunlight to do well. They can be watered with the rest of the collection because they can save some water in the base of the leaves. They respond well to feeding - a little bit at a time but as regularly as possible.(I use mainly organics.)

The plant set seeds easily and 3-5 pups form after flowering. Remove the pups if they are 50% the size of the parents or leave them to form a nice clump. 

Another plant from Erudite Ephiphyte:

 Hybrids: Tillandsia flabellata x concolor, Tillandsia flabellata  x Jalisco monticola questionable source Tillandsia flabellata  x fasciculata

 Hybrids: Tillandsia flabbelata x xerographica

Other cultivars:

• TILLANDSIA Bacchus
• TILLANDSIA Barbados
• TILLANDSIA Bellisimo
• TILLANDSIA Brooloo
• TILLANDSIA Brooyar
• TILLANDSIA Chu I-Hsiung
• TILLANDSIA Cooloola
• TILLANDSIA Evelyn Reilly
• TILLANDSIA Flamenco
• TILLANDSIA Florida Fuego
• TILLANDSIA Goomboorian
• TILLANDSIA Graceful
• TILLANDSIA Gympie
• TILLANDSIA Holm's Krakatoa
• TILLANDSIA Holm's Darling
• TILLANDSIA Inskip
• TILLANDSIA Larosa
• TILLANDSIA Latas au Pair
• TILLANDSIA Little Richard Olson
• TILLANDSIA Memory of Roy
• TILLANDSIA Oeseriana
• TILLANDSIA Queen's Fiesta
• TILLANDSIA Queen's Trinket
• TILLANDSIA Scarlet Pimpernel
• TILLANDSIA Sombrero
• TILLANDSIA Theebine
• TILLANDSIA Velveteen
• TILLANDSIA Yabba